Riding the Waves Through Chemo

I asked my doctor:

What can I do to keep myself fit? Can I go out in the water?

Surfing had just become one of my biggest loves. Being outside. Feeling nature all around me. Moving my body in a way that felt alive and free.

The doctor shook their head.

Better not.

The water could carry bacteria.

My immune system would be too weak from the treatments.

Safer to stay home. Small exercises only.

I understood. But I didn’t listen.

Surfing became my escape from the hospital bed.

It was my way back to myself.

Usually, it took three or four days to recover from each dose.

But then—I would get on my bike, ride to the beach, step onto my board…and feel so alive.

The wind in my hair (well… what was left of it).

The sunlight pouring into my eyes.

The cold water shocking my system awake.

The sound of birds overhead.

For those moments, I felt normal again.

Grounded. Alive.

And I’m certain it helped carry me through.